You know what’s holding you back? It’s not your strength, your gear (the shoes maybe???), or even that frustrating sloper you can’t figure out. It’s your mindset. I’ll bet someone told you, "Just lean into the sloper, trust your weight," and now it’s burned into your brain as climbing gospel. But here’s the deal: sometimes, the best advice feels completely wrong.
Case in point: I was working this gnarly V6 at Substation Brixton (shoutout to my fellow Keepers). There was this big, evil sloper midway up the wall. I leaned under it like I was told, shifted my weight back, and bam—my hands peeled off faster than I could shout a curse. Tried it again. Same result. Third time? Now I’m just wasting skin.
Then someone said something crazy: “Pull up on it.”
I laughed. I mean, who pulls UP on a sloper? That’s the opposite of what you’re supposed to do. Slopers are all about weight distribution, not brute strength. But, at this point, I had nothing to lose. So, I reset, chalked up, and did the unthinkable. I pulled up on the sloper, engaging my core and pinning my body to the wall—and it worked. I stuck it. My brain? Blown.
Lesson One: Counterintuitive Advice is Gold
Here’s the thing about climbing advice (or any advice, really): the stuff that makes you uncomfortable, that challenges the way you’ve been doing things, is often exactly what you need. Pulling up on a sloper goes against everything I thought I knew, but it worked. Why? Because climbing isn’t just about following rules; it’s about adapting, experimenting, and trusting the process—even when it feels wrong.
Lesson Two: Breathe Like It’s Your Job
We all know the advice: “Don’t forget to breathe.” It’s so basic, it’s almost insulting, right? Yet, let me ask you this—how often do you actually "breathe" on the wall? Not those shallow, panicky inhales, but slow, controlled, purposeful breathing?
One time, I was stuck on a steep overhang. Arms flaming out, legs shaking, and my brain was already halfway to failure. My instinct? Hold my breath and power through. But instead, I forced myself to stop for just a second and take a deep, controlled breath. You know what happened? My focus sharpened, my grip relaxed, and I found a foothold I’d completely missed before.
Breathing is counterintuitive because, in the heat of the moment, it feels like a waste of time. But trust me—oxygen is your best friend. It resets your brain and body, keeps you in the present, and gives you the edge you need to make smarter decisions.
Lesson Three: Climb With Your Legs, Not Your Ego
Here’s a confession: I wasted too much time climbing like a fool, over-relying on my arms and ignoring the strongest muscles in my body—my legs. Why? Because pulling with my arms felt more powerful. It felt right. But that illusion of power is a lie, and every over-pumped forearm was proof.
Once I started focusing on footwork—really engaging my legs—I noticed two things:
1. I could climb harder, longer, and more efficiently.
2. My ego took a hit, because I realized how much energy I’d been wasting trying to muscle my way through problems.
The truth is, climbing isn’t about raw power. It’s about strategy, technique, and knowing when to let your legs do the heavy lifting. So, stop treating your feet like passengers. They’re the engine of your climb.
The Counterintuitive Climber’s Mindset
Here’s what all this boils down to: the best climbing advice often feels wrong at first. Pulling up on a sloper, breathing when you’re panicked, trusting your legs instead of your arms—they all go against what feels natural. But growth only happens when you step out of your comfort zone and try something new.
And this isn’t just about climbing. It’s about life. How many times have you resisted advice because it sounded too weird, too simple, or too uncomfortable? How often have you ignored a new idea because it didn’t fit into your “rules”?
The next time you’re on the wall—or facing a challenge off it—remember this: the solution you need might be the one that feels most unnatural. Pull up on the sloper. Breathe. Use your legs. Trust the process.
Because the hardest moves? They’re all in your head.
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